Graubünden in a Glass – A Conversation with Silvia Zuberbühler, Head Sommelier

Fancy a glass of wine? Or two? Then you’re sure to find something to your liking in Tgesa Romana’s new wine cellar. The wine list is based on a concept we developed specifically with our in-house sommelier, Silvia Zuberbühler. She explains why she sometimes compares Pinot Noir from Graubünden with that from Oregon, and which Graubünden grape variety is still a real hidden gem.

Silvia, the Bündner Herrschaft is considered a Pinot Noir hotspot. What makes the region so special?

The combination of unique climatic conditions (particularly the mild climate influenced by the Föhn wind) and a long tradition of winemaking makes the Bündner Herrschaft region truly one-of-a-kind. The earliest documented evidence of winemaking in the canton of Graubünden dates back to the year 765. Today, this tradition is carried on and perfected by innovative, highly skilled winemakers. The result is wines that uniquely combine origin, craftsmanship, and character.

Wines from Graubünden have an excellent reputation—but hardly anyone outside Switzerland knows them. Why is that?

This is primarily due to the small production volumes. In 2025, only 1.22% of Swiss wine was exported. With its approximately 400 hectares of vineyards, the Bündner Herrschaft accounts for only about 3% of total Swiss wine production. And because we enjoy drinking our own wines so much, there’s very little left to promote them internationally. That’s why I was all the more delighted when I was recently in China and discovered Swiss wines at a very good wine bar in Beijing. So the interest is there, and that makes me happy.

Which Grisons grape variety surprises guests the most—and why?

Completer: This indigenous Graubünden white wine variety captivates with its structure, distinct character, and great aging potential. Due to the demanding care required in the vineyard, it had nearly disappeared at one point. Today, however, impressive wines are once again being produced from this variety. Completer consistently surprises and delights sommeliers from abroad in particular.

Which producers or vineyards in Graubünden particularly impressed you when putting together the wine list?

What excites me most is the region’s diversity. When it comes to white wines, the spectrum ranges from fresh, crisp Riesling-Sylvaner to harmonious, complex Chardonnay aged in oak. As for the red wines, the Pinot Noirs alone demonstrate an enormous range: from juicy, soft, approachable wines for a relaxed evening on the terrace to elegant, structured wines with great aging potential that pair excellently with food.

How do the regional wines complement Sascha Gruber’s private collection from the United States?

The beauty of the world of wine lies in its diversity. Every collection I work with tells a very personal story. Sascha Gruber lived in the U.S. for a while and brought back some special wines from there. Why not taste one of our great Grisons Pinots alongside one from Oregon to see where we’re similar and where we might be a little different? For me, this fits perfectly with the idea of a wine cellar as a place to meet: spending time together, enjoying ourselves, and chatting over a glass of wine.

Which guests do you find more interesting: people who already know a lot about wine, or those who are new to the subject?

It’s all about the mix. It’s always exciting to exchange ideas with experienced wine lovers and delve deeper into the subject together. At the same time, it’s a real pleasure to spark a new interest in wine among people. With Tgesa Romana’s wine cellar concept, we achieve both: there’s a straightforward, easy-to-navigate wine list for a simple introduction, alongside an extensive digital menu with plenty of background information on every wine. This way, everyone can browse the wine cellar at their leisure and discover something new.

A perfect evening at Tgesa Romana: What do you recommend?

For me, a perfect evening starts with a glass of sparkling wine, perhaps accompanied by some dried meat or regional specialties to share. Then, a beautifully aged Graubünden Pinot Noir to go with a dish from the regional cuisine. I enjoy a tender cut of meat from the village butcher shop “Peduzzi.” Just as important are the people at the table, the conversations, and, in general, the cozy atmosphere in the mountains.

About the person

SilviaZuberbühler is Switzerland’s first personal sommelier. After working in top-tier Parisian restaurants and spending many years in the Zurich wine trade, she founded her company, Personal Sommelier GmbH, in 2022. She advises both private clients and restaurants on cellar organization, wine selection, and tastings. Her goal: to make a passion for wine accessible and to put enjoyment first.

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